Where in the world is Peggy Peg – Ushguli

Where in the world is Peggy Peg – Ushguli, Georgia

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Travel Blog: Reaching New Heights – Uncovering the Hidden Beauty of the Greater Caucasus

The dusty track we are bouncing along suddenly and rather unexpectedly drops around a hitherto hidden corner, in doing so revealing a majestic glacier-clad mountain that had previously been concealed behind the vast canyon walls that tower above us on either side. A series of jagged snow-capped peaks dominate the horizon, the gurgling waters of the Enguri River and expansive forest-lined meadows adding to the feeling of total awe elicited by such natural grandeur. 

It’s at this moment, engulfed by the magnitude, beauty and vast nature of the world that surrounds us, that I am reminded of a Georgian legend told to me a few weeks previously. The story goes that when God was assigning land to the various people of the world, the Georgians were busy eating, drinking and feasting (something they still love to do today) and so missed out on an allocation. The Georgians told God that they had been toasting to his health and invited him to join them. 

God was said to have had such a good time at the Georgian supra (traditional feast) that he gave them all the land he had been saving for himself. That’s why, according to the legend and many Georgian people, they see their country as God’s own. Whether you believe the legend or not, it’s hard to argue with the fact that the landscapes found in this little country are divine, especially those found in the Greater Caucasus, such as the one we find ourselves immersed in. 

We each have our travel bucket lists. Those destinations that we’ve longed to visit for several years, places that are far from the beaten track. It just so happens that the northern reaches of Georgia, where the little villages and mountain passes are only accessible for a small window each summer, have been on our list for some time now. Coinciding our arrival with this window was at the heart of our route planning many months before we waved goodbye to a so-called traditional life back in Wales. The danger in building up to something so big is that reality fails to meet expectations. Not so in Georgia. 

In Georgia, the beauty of the country pervades around every corner, landscapes morph into a kaleidoscope of ever-changing, spectacular natural features. Vast rolling hills, dormant volcanoes, saw-tooth peaks, turquoise lakes, rumbling waterfalls, expansive steppes home to prodigious flocks of sheep and subtropical paradises. It’s the high mountains that call to us, though, the promise of stepping into a world far removed from anywhere we’ve previously been on our travels.

There was a time, a thousand years ago, when the Svaneti region was at the heart of the Golden Age of Georgia, back when inhabitants used sheep’s fleeces to gather gold from rivers. Great defence towers were built in the valley to protect against invaders who plagued the region. Many of these towers remain to this day, with the best examples found in Ushguli, one of the highest continually inhabited settlements in Europe, at over two thousand two hundred metres. 

For all of Svaneti’s rich history, it’s the natural wonders that draw our attention along the valley and up towards the foot of Mount Shkhara and the glacier of the same name. Wending our way along the well-trodden footpath that picks its way through dense brush, across babbling streams and, eventually, over rocks strewn by the retreating glacier, it’s hard not to feel that same sense of littleness as had first hit us upon arriving here. Watching a great torrent of water spilling out from the face of the glacier only adds to it. 

It will remain a common theme during our time in the Greater Caucasus, a constant reminder of how inferior we are to the natural world. Far from being a negative, the feeling of being small empowered us. Standing in the shadows of colossal mountains, it’s hard not to be inspired by the magnitude of the world around us. In such moments, we find ourselves dreaming of bigger adventures, of travel to places that we had previously not even considered. In those days, one destination was taken from the bucket list, but several more were added for the coming months and years. 

Where in the World:
High in the Greater Caucasus, the community of Ushguli comprises five small villages located at the head of Enguri gorge, which in turn leads to the foot of Georgia’s highest mountain, Mount Shkhara and an imposing glacier of the same name. Situated at over two thousand two hundred metres, Ushguli remains one of Europe’s* highest continually inhabited settlements. 

How to Get There: 
To reach Ushguli, you will either need a 4x4 vehicle or a campervan with high ground clearance, as despite there being paved roads for the majority of the route from Zugdidi, the tarmac eventually runs out and the track becomes rough and rock-strewn. If you wish to complete the recognised loop from Ushguli, over Zagar Pass and down to Lentekhi then such a vehicle is a must. From Zugdidi, head north towards Mestia, which makes for an ideal stopping point to break the journey up, before continuing along to Ughviri Pass, which leads to Ushguli.  

Where to Stay: 
Without doubt, the best places to stay in and around Ushguli are the numerous wild camping locations that offer spectacular views of Mount Shkhara and the glaciers that adorn it. However, if you’re looking for more traditional accommodation, there are numerous guest houses and small hotels offering simple rooms. The pick of these are Hotel Nato, Guesthouse Buba and Chazhashi Guesthouse. 

Peggy Pegs Used:
Our pitch was dry and very solid soil, so we secured our Fix&Go Anchor Plates 2.0 with the hit-in Screw-out Peg hardcore Peggy. The TieStraps 2.0 were secured with hit-in Screw-out Peg hardcore Peggy, which are all in the Fix&Go Awning Set.

*Georgia is located at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, with a small part of its territory extending into Eastern Europe and the majority of it in Western Asia. It is often considered a transcontinental country and identifies as being part of Europe despite its geographical location. 

Key Facts

Discover Ushguli – Georgia’s Hidden Mountain Gem

Why visit Ushguli

Ushguli offers a unique combination of history, culture and untouched mountain scenery. Ancient defense towers, centuries-old traditions and breathtaking views make this place truly special.

Getting there

The route to Ushguli can be challenging but the scenery is absolutely worth it. A 4x4 vehicle is recommended, especially if you plan to complete the full loop over the Zagar Pass.

Where to stay

Wild camping with a view of the glaciers is an unforgettable experience. For those who prefer a roof over their head, Ushguli offers cozy guesthouses with authentic Georgian hospitality.

Peggy Pegs used

The pitch was dry and very solid soil, so we secured our Fix&Go Anchor Plates 2.0 with the hit-in Screw-out Peg hardcore Peggy. The TieStraps 2.0 were secured with hit-in Screw-out Peg hardcore Peggy, which are all in the Fix&Go Awning Set.

Activities and adventures

• Hiking at the foot of Mount Shkhara
• Exploring the ancient defense towers in Chazhashi
• Crossing the Zagar Pass
• Experiencing Georgian hospitality

All ot this makes Ushguli a destination full of unforgettable moments.

Insider tip

Start your day early to enjoy the glacier area almost to yourself. The sunrise paints the peaks in soft pink light and makes the experience even more magical.

Fazit:

Ushguli is a place full of history, strength and natural beauty. It is the perfect base for exploring the Greater Caucasus and for those who want to experience Georgia in its purest form.

Marcus is a husband, a father, an adventure athlete and an award-winning writer, who travels the world in their Bailey of Bristol motorhome with his wife Kim and his two kids.

If you have any questions about their life on the road or simply want to follow their travels more closely, you can contact Marcus and Kim over on Instagram through @marcusleachglobal and @our.roaming.odyssey