Where in the World is Peggy Peg? Lake Van

Where in the World is Peggy Peg? Lake Van, Turkey

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Travel Blog: Edge of the Map - Embracing the wild solitude of Lake Van in Eastern Turkey

Adventure is worthwhile. Not my words, but those of the great Greek storyteller Aesop. Truer words I could not have written myself, words that sit alone in my mind as I stand on an exposed rock that juts out into the waters of the imperious and enchanting Lake Van. 

Despite a sense of isolation from the outside world to say we are alone would be distorting the truth somewhat, for up on a grassy hummock behind our wild camping spot a lone shepherd grazes a flock of hardy looking sheep, their fleeces long and mottled, his face creased and weathered. Further back still a small gathering of houses from which protrudes the omnipresent minaret of the mosque. Otherwise there’s nothing but mountains and water as far as the eye can see. 

It’s a long way from the campsites of Europe that we frequented in the early days of our travels, but then with every passing day we’ve evolved, adapted and found a rhythm and way of moving through the world that better suits our collective needs and shared philosophies. Not that we could have been on a campsite had we wanted to anyway, it’s been many months since that was even an option given the route we have taken through Georgia, Armenia and now back into Eastern Turkey. 

Back when we were planning our travels Lake Van was so distant, both geographically and in time, that it barely registered in our minds. Yet, the seed had been planted with that first curious look many months ago, and the closer we drew to being there, the greater the focus of our research into the region and its people. The initial appeal had been it’s location, tucked away in the south-eastern corner of Turkey, close to the borders of both Iran and Iraq, thus offering the chance to go somewhere uniquely different to the usual routes taken in this vast country. 

We arrived with a broad understanding of the region, thanks to our reading, but we were ill-prepared for the beauty and sheer scale of the lake. Arriving as we did from the north, as the late autumnal sun was setting, we were privy to a spectacular scene; the lake’s waters shimmering gold, a string of high, jagged snow-capped mountains to the south and the domineering volcano Mount Süphan, which rises up over four thousand meters, to the west. 

As spectacular as our first encounter with the lake was, it wouldn’t be the best we experienced during our time exploring the region; that would come later as we meandered along the southern shores. After the latest in a series of security checks, the roads in this region are patrolled by the military, we chanced upon a little hamlet, Yelkenli, where we stopped in search of fresh bread. There was no bakery, but a jovial lady waved us over to her house where, after a conversation through Google Translate, she proceeded to arm us with homemade bread, two bags stuffed full of fruit from her trees and a large jar of pickles she’d prepared in anticipation of winter. We tried to pay her but she refused, instead pointing us not back towards the way we’d come, but down the dirt track that led towards the lake. 

Of all the places we’ve been in the past years of travelling there will be few that match the crooked finger of land that reached out into the lake at the end of the track that Asli had suggested we follow. Here we would stay for four blissful days, days where the rhythm of life was slowed to the brink of becoming stationary, days bookended by sunrises and sets that entranced us with their kaleidoscope of colours, days that filled our souls with joy.  

Such a place would never have been discovered without a yearning for adventure, and so despite that coming with inherent risks it really is, as Aesop sagely said, worthwhile. 

Where in the World: Measuring 3755 square kilometres Lake Van is the largest in Turkey, and second largest in the Middle East. It’s situated in the far east of Turkey in the Armenian highlands close to the border with Iran. 

How to Get There: Such is the vast scale of Turkey it’s hard to give directions beyond, head for the south eastern corner of this enchanting country and you’ll find the lake. 

Where to Stay: While there are a few seasonal campsites scattered around the lake, the region is a wild camping paradise, home to some truly incredible places on the water’s edge. 

Pegs Used: Our pitch was on soft grass, so we secured our awning feed with the Fix&Go Anchor plates 2.0, using the 16cm Screw-in Peg&Stop, and then the TieStraps 2.0 with the 20cm Peg&Stop Screw-in pegs. 

Key Facts

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Discovering Lake Van in Eastern Turkey:

Majestic and Remote: Lake Van is the largest lake in Turkey, covering 3,755 square kilometres, and the second largest in the Middle East. Located in the far eastern region near the Iranian and Iraqi borders, it offers breathtaking views and a sense of complete isolation.

Dramatic Backdrop: Surrounded by jagged snow-capped mountains and dominated by the imposing Mount Süphan (4,058m), the lake is a stunning natural wonder nestled in the Armenian Highlands.

Why Visit Lake Van:

Unspoiled Wilderness: With its crystal-clear waters, volcanic terrain, and secluded bays, Lake Van is perfect for those seeking authentic, off-grid travel in Turkey.

Cultural Encounters: Discover the hospitality of local villagers, such as in Yelkenli, where homemade bread, fresh fruit, and warm smiles turn a simple stop into a memorable cultural exchange.

Adventure at Its Core: Whether it's the scenic drive, remote setting, or military-patrolled roads, visiting Lake Van is an adventure worth taking for true explorers.

How to Get There:

Head East: The lake lies in southeastern Turkey, accessible by driving from Bitlis, Tatvan or Van city. It’s a highlight for overlanders travelling through Georgia, Armenia or into Iran.

Plan Ahead: Due to the remote location and military zones, having a flexible route and updated travel info is essential.

Where to Stay:

Wild Camping Paradise: Few formal campsites exist, but the lake's southern and western shores are ideal for wild camping—offering tranquility, panoramic sunrises, and soul-stirring sunsets.

Local Tips Lead to Hidden Gems: Villagers often direct you to hidden spots—like the finger of land near Yelkenli—that become the most unforgettable stops of your journey.

Pegs Used for Camping:

Soft Grass Conditions:

• Fix&Go Anchor plates 2.0 with 16cm Peg&Stop Screw-in Pegs for soft grass conditions.
• 20cm Peg&Stop Screw-in Pegs combined with TieStraps 2.0 storm straps for extra stability.

This combination ensured a solid and weatherproof setup even on soft, grassy terrain.

Insider Tip:

Go Off-Grid: The best spots aren’t marked on any map—trust local advice, venture down that dirt track, and you might find your own private peninsula like we did.

Time It Right: Autumn offers mild weather and golden-hour magic, perfect for photography and peaceful camping experiences.

Fazit:

A Hidden Gem of Turkey: With its epic landscapes, genuine cultural moments, and true wild camping potential, Lake Van is a must-visit for overlanders and nature lovers alike.

Adventure is Worthwhile: Whether you're standing at the lake's edge or watching the sun dip behind Mount Süphan, the moments here prove that adventure truly pays off.

Marcus is a husband, a father, an adventure athlete and an award-winning writer travelling the world in their Bailey of Bristol motorhome with his wife Kim and his two kids.

If you have any questions about their life on the road or simply want to follow their travels more closely, you can contact Marcus and Kim over on Instagram through @marcusleachglobal and @our.roaming.odyssey