Where in the World: Algarve

Where in the World: Algarve, Portugal

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Travel Blog: Beyond the Beaches - Discovering the Wild and Warm Heart of the Algarve

“I’ve been coming here to fish for over twenty years now,” Fernando tells us in a heavy accent as he casts his line out once again. Dorothy looks on, transfixed, waiting, hoping that the line will go tight and Fernando will haul another glistening sea bream from the waters some fifty feet below. 

We are standing on the edge of a precipitous cliff at the edge of Sagres Fortress in Portugal, where we have been chatting to a jovial local fisherman for some time, luxuriating in the winter sunshine as he goes about his business. The excitement builds every time he brings up a fish, as it means Dorothy can hold it as he unhooks it and adds it to his ever-growing haul. 

Our time with Fernando is another reminder that travel is so often about the people we meet rather than the destinations themselves. Which is not lost on us, especially as we find ourselves in the Algarve, a region of the country that has never been high on our list of places to visit. Only when you’re touring in Portugal in December if you want to enjoy the sunshine you need to head south, and do that for long enough and you’ll reach the Algarve. 

It’s not that we have anything against the golden beaches and turquoise waters that the Brits associate with this corner of the world, only that we are not the biggest fans of the bustling tourist resorts and towns that go with them. Thankfully Fernando is on hand to share with us a plethora of local knowledge, in-between long drags of his cigarette, helping us to create an alternative route through the Algarve. 

One that starts by actually back-tracking from Sagres and heading up what he called ‘the Wild West’, a stretch of untamed coast that abounds with raw beauty and power, untouched by the hand of modernity. The vast wind-swept beaches of Castelejo and Cordoama attract serious surfers from far and wide, each looking like a seal bobbing in the choppy waters from our lofty vantage point at Miradouro da Cordoama. From here you get a true sense of the scale of the cliffs, plummeting hundreds of feet down below us, the wind howling as we step from the motorhome. 

Heading back inland we gradually gain height on the meandering road that leads up towards the quaint mountain village of Monchique. It’s here that it feels as if we’ve stepped back in time, walking the narrow cobbled streets that wind their way through whitewashed houses, the scent of eucalyptus drifting on the breeze. Among the traditional taverns serving piri-piri chicken are several bakeries specialising in local cakes, biscuits and pastries, all using ingredients found in the surrounding area, of which carob is a firm favourite. It’s in searching for one bakery in particular on Google Maps that we stumble across the Happy Donkey Sanctuary. 

Almost hidden from sight in the sprawling eucalyptus forests that dominate the Monchique Natural Park is a little stone building, home to a German nomad Robert, whose five donkeys roam free in the surrounding area. We spend the morning lazily walking through the forest with him, talking about our respective lives lived on the move, the sun warming the air as Harrison and Dorothy excitedly search for the donkeys. We eventually find them, much to their delight as they surround us, nuzzling us as if we are long lost family members. 

Heading back down from the mountains, on another snaking road, we once again chance upon an event that immediately catches our attention. After all, it's not everyday that you see a sign for a festival whose main focus is the humble sweet potato, which just so happens to be one of my personal favourite vegetables. Quite what we were expecting from the festival I don’t know, but what we found was a sensory feast; plates of roasted sweet potatoes, breads, pastries, and even sweet potato ice cream filled the halls against the backdrop of cooking contests and live music. Dorothy and Harrison were soon dancing alongside locals while we sampled the cuisine on offer. And yes, the ice-cream was really good. 

We are eventually called further north in Portugal by the pull of higher mountains, the highest in the country in fact, although as we do so it’s with an altered view of the Algarve. We now understand that it’s a region that delights in its contrasts; mountains and sea, wild cliffs and tranquil valleys, ancient traditions and modern culture, tourists hotspots and hidden gems. There’s so much more than the popular haunts of winter sun-seekers and tourists that are pushed in mainstream media and our experiences here not only showed us the real natural beauty of the region, but reminded us of the importance of slowing down and connecting with the people we meet along the way. 

Where in the World: 
Situated in the south of Portugal the Algarve region is hugely popular with travellers from all over Europe. It’s well known for its golden beautiful beaches, dramatic cliffs, charming coastal towns and delicious seafood, offering a perfect mix of relaxation, adventure, and culture.

How to Get There: 
If you are travelling down through Portugal along the coast, then you will follow the N120, although a more direct route is to take the A2 and then make your way across the region from west to east. 

Where to Stay: 
Given its popularity there are any number of excellent campsites, although for one of the best in all of Portugal head to Turiscampo. While wild camping is possible in certain areas, there are also areas, such as the natural park around Sagres that it is forbidden and you will be fined if caught. 

Pegs Used:
Our pitch was a mix of softer and hard ground, so we used the hit-in Screw-out Peg hardcore Peggy to secure the Fix&Go Anchor Plates 2.0 and 20cm Peg&Stop Screw-in Pegs with TieStraps 2.0 for the storm straps.

Key Facts

Discover the Algarve – Portugal’s Wild and Warm Soul

Why visit

The Algarve is so much more than sun and beaches. From rugged cliffs to peaceful valleys and vibrant local culture, this region captures the real spirit of Portugal.

Getting there

Take the N120 along the coast or the faster A2 heading south, then explore the region from west to east.

Where to stay

The Algarve has countless great campsites. One of the best is Turiscampo. Wild camping is possible in some areas but prohibited in nature parks like Sagres.

Peggy Pegs used

Our pitch was a mix of soft and hard ground. We used the hit-in Screw-out Peg hardcore Peggy to secure the Fix&Go Anchor Plates 2.0 and 20cm Peg&Stop Screw-in Pegs with TieStraps 2.0 for the storm straps. Everything stayed stable, even on uneven terrain.

Activities and adventures

• Surfing at Castelejo and Cordoama
• Exploring Monchique’s cobbled streets
• Visiting the Happy Donkey Sanctuary
• Joining the Sweet Potato Festival 

The Algarve is full of surprises.

Insider tip

Visit outside the main season to enjoy the Algarve’s peaceful charm and warm light.

Conclusion

The Algarve is not just a place to visit – it’s a feeling that stays with you long after you’ve left.

Marcus is a husband, a father, an adventure athlete and an award-winning writer, who travels the world in their Bailey of Bristol motorhome with his wife Kim and his two kids.

If you have any questions about their life on the road or simply want to follow their travels more closely, you can contact Marcus and Kim over on Instagram through @marcusleachglobal and @our.roaming.odyssey