How to use the Peggy Pegs

This page to designed to highlight the advantages of using Peggy Pegs over conventional metal pegs, as well as highlighting some of the limitations, thus avoiding damage, and disappointment.


The pegs are manufactured from reinforced plastic.

For this reason we strongly recommend that you screw in your first peg by hand, this will give you a feel for the peg ‘biting’ into the earth, and you will also feel the peg twisting and flexing.

Once the peg is firmly in place, then bring up the torque settings on your drill so that it just clicks out on the hand driven peg. The torque is different for each of the different size of pegs.


“Rattle Guns” or Impact Drivers should NOT be used.

They are designed to undo the tightest of nuts, – for example, impossible to shift wheel nuts.

There is no torque setting, and as such are not suitable for driving in threaded tent pegs that are dependent on creating a female thread in the earth, to hold them in place, just like a wood screw makes a female thread in the timber.

Even with the normal drill and a standard peg in soft ground you can easily strip the thread in the earth and simply pull out a plug of soil.

One of the features of the pegs is that they do not need to be driven all the way into the ground, if they won’t go any further, it means they are well anchored, and ready to do their work.


The pegs are slightly flexible with good torque resistance.

They will twist through approximately 60 degrees before breaking, and when you feel the peg twisting, you know that it’s securely anchored in place, and, ready to do its job.

This photo demonstrates a peg torqued through approximately 60 degrees, plus the bend that can easily be seen.

When the peg is securely anchored, simply move the blue clip down to ground level and click it in to place this will ensure that the guy rope is anchored at the optimum location – nearest the ground, and simply attach your guy rope.


The blue plastic ‘driving socket’.

Part of the PP06 Combo Tool – these may also be broken if over torqued. The handle section has a spanner socket, and is ideal for getting the last bit of ‘grip’ into the ground, and you will feel the peg flexing, and know that if you continue to try and tighten it, it will most likely shear.


There is a cast aluminium driver unit (HP66).

which is very robust and is ideal for driving the larger heavy duty pegs, and is now included in the standard ‘Starter Kit’ (PP03).


The large Plastic Peg (PP12).

Is more resistant to torque, but again it’s reinforced plastic and may break if excessive torque is applied. That said, I’ve never managed to break one despite overriding the torque setting when drilling in a PP12 peg.

There is an aluminium (PP13) version of the large plastic peg, and you simply will not break it – it is more likely to twist the drill out of your hand – in my experience.


If you are thinking of heavy duty.

I would definitely recommend both the Aluminium Peg and aluminium drill adapter unit – HP66

One further thought for hard compacted stony ground, is to try pre-drilling a pilot hole with a 6mm (for the small pegs) or 10mm masonry drill, just to break up a really tough rocky road-base type of ground, such that the pegs can get a deep bite into the sub-surface and allow a secure anchor point.

We have a camper trailer, and have done several extended trips, we usually use the standard pegs for the awning and general anchoring. But sometimes when the wind gets up, or even more so when it gets wet and stormy, I put in a few of the large aluminium pegs at the corners or at critical locations, and relax, we are simply going nowhere . . . and to date that has been the case.

Of course, you can use any method of screw the pegs in – socket set, spanners, speed bar, whatever works for you, we’re just making you aware of what we can offer.


And finally, for really rough stony ground.

We have the squat Hardcore Peg (HP61) that is hammered-in and screwed out. This may seem a contradiction in terms, but trust me they play a valuable role in securing equipment in the really tough well compacted rocky ground, that normally bends conventional pegs.

I hope this is a help, and if you have any more questions, please feel free to drop me an email. Or if you see us on the road, call us up on UHF or VKS737 mobile unit 1188

We are in the process of making videos and taking photographs of the pegs and plates in action under all Australian conditions to show you why Peggy Peg is the best choice for your 4WD, caravaning and camping needs. Check out the individual products to see the videos.

Good camping, and feel free to let us know how you find the range of products, and if you have any interesting or unusual photos, we’d love to see them / share them with other Peggy Peg users.


Customer comments upon using Peggy Peg


"They are the best things since sliced bread, Warrumbungle’s – very soft and sandy used the long pegs brilliant – had 4 campers come and ask what they were and how well they worked (should be on commission), one guy took photos said he was going to look into getting some."

"West Mac’s I swear no one thinks of the poor bugger with a camper trailer tent that needs to drive a peg in, the van pads are like concrete and the infill is any hard rock they can find but the short pegs beat that and nailed everything down perfect."

"Heading back from Alice we camped in behind Pootnoura siding, blew a gale everything flapping, conceded defeat at 1am packed up, winds got up to about 50 Kms but the pegs stayed in."

"Into the Northern Flinders concrete country again, the pegs are brilliant, no swearing, no cursing, no straightening bent pegs, the joy of it!"