We have compiled a list of some of the questions we get asked by customers prior to buying Peggy Pegs.
We compiled the list so you can research the pegs and plates and compare them with others on the market. We are a family based small business and believe that honest information will make the decision to buy Peggy Peg products easier and you can buy with confidence.

No. As long as the thread of the peg is screwed in and underground the pegs are working. If this is the case, move the blue rope clip as close to the ground as you can and snap it into position.

All Peggy Pegs are 17mm hex head. This includes the PP05 Small Peg, PP02 Standard Peg, PP12 Large Plastic Peg, PP13 Large Aluminium Peg, HP61 Hardcore Pegs (hammer in screw out).

Yes. Any tool with a 17mm hex head can be used to screw the pegs in and out. Some caravan stabiliser legs use a 17mm hex head, but some definitely don’t, you need to check your setup. We DO NOT recommend the use of ‘rattle guns’ or impact drivers, as, to the best of our knowledge, you cannot adjust/reduce the torque settings.

The difference between the Plastic and Aluminium is the flexibility. The head of the Large Plastic Peg will twist when too much torque is applied indicating that it is probably in far enough, and ready to do its job. The flexibility is also good for windy conditions as the slight flexing works like a spring and eases backwards and forwards rather than rattling the peg and loosening it. The Large Aluminium Peg will go into anything, a lot more torque can be applied to it, to drive it all the way home. The drill will give up before the peg breaks (that said, we have never managed to break a Large Plastic Peg). The Aluminium Peg is also better in rocky ground, loose or hard, but will also work anywhere the plastic one works.

We use a Ryobi cordless drill, and keep the torque setting at 20 for the standard peg (PP02) and less for the smaller peg (PP05), due to its narrower shank. Torque settings will be different for different makes of drill. We recommend that you can work your way up the torque settings, until you find the peg flexing (see photo in ‘how to use’ section). You should then remove the drill, and ‘tweak’ the peg by hand – either with the handle of your PP06 Combo Tool – it has a ring spanner built in, or any other 17mm hex head tool.

The Large Plastic (and Aluminium) Pegs are excellent in sandy conditions, and for the best results, scoop a handful of the really dry loose sand of the top of the beach and drill into the firmer well compacted slightly damp sub level of sand – we’ve seen people making temporary boat moorings from the large pegs.

Yes. Every Gazebo we have tried, works well, this includes the popular makes such as Oztrail, Oz Tent Spinifex gazebo, etc. The jaw width of the Big Foot is 70mm and the depth is 75mm to the furthest point. Check the dimensions of your gazebo leg and foot, and ask us for advice.

Absolutely, check out the short video of the Peggy Peg Toyota Prado winching itself up a small ramp with just one HP61 Hardcore Peg – check it out - And remember, if you’re not happy with any Peggy Peg product, just return it to us for a refund.

Definitely, the Small Peggy Peg (PP05) was predominantly designed for pegging floor matting and ground sheets, to provide a clean working surface outside your caravan and under the awning, but in certain ground conditions, it is an ideal guy rope anchor.

Yes you can, but what I do on my camper trailer awning, is to put the spring at the top of the guy rope, sitting over the top of the pole, and then the loop in the end of the guy rope slips easily and securely over the blue rope clip. If you are unable to do this, it would be best to make a small rope loop through the spring, which can be attached to the blue rope clip. Using rope on the clip will be less stressful in extreme conditions, and will spread the load better than having the spring directly onto the clip.

The jaws of the Crocodile Peg are infinitely adjustable, simply screw out the orange cam lever to allow the jaws to open to 10mm or more, once whatever you are trying to hold is in place in the jaws, simply screw in the cam lever, to achieve a good grip when the pressure is applied. But remember, the clip is totally plastic and if excessive force is applied, the cam lever can be broken. Don’t screw the cam leaver until it is tight, it is the action of rolling the cam over (closing the lock) that secures the jaws tight. If it feels like you are applying too much force to close the cam, unscrew the leaver one turn, and try again.

Certainly, either pass a rope through the back of the clip, or use it like the blue rope clip on the pegs, by slipping a loop of rope over the rope clips. And tighten the jaws of the clip securely over the tarpaulin.

The Crocodile Peg is made from reinforced UV resistant plastic and has been designed with no sharp edges, the teeth of the clip are rounded, not jagged and sharp. The reason the clips hold so well is that the jaw pressure can be adjusted to suit the material and conditions, and minimise any potential damage.

Yep! That’s the beauty of combining the Big Foot with the versatile Peggy Peg tent pegs. The Standard Peg (PP02), big screw in Plastic and Aluminium Pegs PP12 & PP13 and the Hardcore Pegs HP61 all work with the L.D.F Big Foot. And if you are unable to get the peg all the way in, simply move the blue rope clip down the shaft of the peg and clip it into the lowest slot, this will hold the Big Foot firmly on the ground, and nothing is going anywhere. The L.D.F. Big Foot combines the holding power of 3 pegs, to give an outstanding anchor point, in a multitude of ground conditions, from sand to steel-peg-bending hard compacted rock.

Yes, the Fix & Go Plate has been designed to work with the standard screw in tent peg (PP02) as well as the hammer in screw out Hardcore pegs (HP61) plus, 2 large pegs (PP12) can be used by simply slipping the peg into the cut-out holes in the plate, and drilling into the ground.


  • Peggy Peg Clients
  • Peggy Peg Clients
  • Peggy Peg Clients
  • Peggy Peg Clients